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Mudcloth is a fabric originating in Mali, Africa. The cotton is often raised on small, family farms, using very simple, labor intensive methods. After being picked and cleaned, it is spun into rough yarns. These fibers are woven into 5-6 inch wide strips, traditionally by the men of the village, on hand looms. Not only is this time-consuming, but you need 7-10 strips, each around 5-6 feet long, in order to create an average size fabric piece! The strips are sewn together, and here, we admit, is where a machine may come into use. Sometimes the strips are connected by a worker with a hand operated sewing machine, sometimes by a sewer. Notice that either method is still done by hand. Each artist has his or her own carefully guarded formulas for the hues, and secret spots for procurring the muds. (Hence the "mud cloth" term.) This process may take years for the creators to learn, as not only dyes, but also their reactions with cloth and fixatives must be known. Traditionally, this was done by the women of the village, but nowadays men also do the designing. These pastes are individually applied, washed off, and often reapplied according to the artist's desire. Various layers and combinations are used. Occasionally the work is soaked in a final solution which brings out the patterns further. If the color white is required, these areas may need extra attention to rebleach with a soda. The entire process can take weeks to months for each item, not counting all the prior preparation by the farmers, weavers, and dye experts. |
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